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The medieval town of Góis  
 

Exploring the medieval town

 
       
  The medieval town of Góis
The medieval town of Góis

Exploring the medieval town

The full history of the town of Góis is slowly revealing itself. It would appear from recent archaeological research, that there has probably been habitation in this part of the Ceira valley for well over 6000 years, and that it has been both economically and politically important throughout the history of Portugal and beyond. Many of the buildings around Góis have played a part in or been witness to the events that have made it so.

Exploring the medieval town

In the medieval period, Góis was probably an important resting place for pilgrims travelling northwards to Santiago de Compostella, which may explain why there are so many small chapels around Góis from this period. We know from archive material and from marks carved into stonework and architectural styles, that Góis was home to Christians, Moors, Jews and Knights Templar. The combination of mineral wealth and the important trade route along the Roman road during the medieval period created the old town of Góis.

Whether you are living in the area, just visiting, on holiday here or looking to move to the area, it is worth taking the time to walk round the cobbled streets of the medieval quarter of the town to soak in some of the local history.

The following is a suggested route that could be taken, winding around the oldest parts of the town.

 
 

 

The walk through the medieval town

 
 

Rua da Quinta

Câmara Municipal

future Museum of Gois,

 


We start our walk  in the centre of Góis at the Praça da Républica. Standing outside the Posto do Turismo (tourist office), we look over the cobbled square at the picturesque balconied buildings on the other side, in various stages of renovation. Looking down the main street and across the bridge, we can see the 18th Century chapel of Saint Sebastian the Martyr.

tourist office

Then, turning to our left, we walk up the Rua da Quinta. On our left, we pass the future Museum of Gois, currently still under archaeological excavation, as it was once a 16th century hospital  for sufferers from syphilis. The hospital was built at Góis because of the curative properties of the local waters. Since there was a certain percentage of gold in the water, it purportedly had a medicinal effect on the diseased state. The site of the hospital is currently open to the public from 9-12 and 2-5 (ask at the tourist office if you would like to visit it).

painted ceilings from the 17th century.

Carrying on up the little street, we pass the Câmara Municipal (District Council) buildings on our right. Inside the council buildings are two celebrated painted ceilings from the 17th century.

 
   


 
 

Moorish tiles

Rua do Passadiço

Rua do Passadiço

Largo da Pombal

Then we enter into the spacious Largo da Pombal. Until 2007 this was the weekly market place, but has been recently renovated and planted with trees and shrubs. At the top of the square is the imposing Igreja Misericordia, proudly bearing the inscription ‘500 anos’. In front of the church is an old ornate fountain, once embellished with a crown that was gleefully knocked off at the foundation of the Republic. Behind the fountain is an older well, beautifully decorated in blue and yellow Moorish tiles. To get a better look at, or photograph the well, it is possible to open the glass door that protects it.

Then we enter into the spacious Largo da Pombal. Until 2007 this was the weekly market place, but has been recently renovated and planted with trees and shrubs. At the top of the square is the imposing Igreja Misericordia, proudly bearing the inscription ‘500 anos’. In front of the church is an old ornate fountain, once embellished with a crown that was gleefully knocked off at the foundation of the Republic. Behind the fountain is an older well, beautifully decorated in blue and yellow Moorish tiles. To get a better look at, or photograph the well, it is possible to open the glass door that protects it.

Behind the fountain is an older well

We now take the passageway above the well, the Rua do Passadiço, a narrow street at the top of the square that passes under one of the buildings. Flanked by little houses on either side, the street twists a short way up the hill. Then we turn right on to the Rua Ferrada José Ferreira, which takes us back down, giving glimpses of life in the little streets and courtyards to our right. This brings us back into the Largo da Pombal.

 
       
 

Igreja Matriz

D. Luís da Silveira

Igreja Matriz

Igreja Matriz

Taking a left turn into the Rua Antonio Francisco Barata, we pass the Quinta dos Maias on the left. This beautiful old building now belongs to the Câmara, which is in the process of renovating it for use as accommodation for visiting artists and writers. We continue up the street to the mother church of Góis – built in 1415, the Igreja Matriz is famous for the tomb of D. Luís da Silveira. At the church we have a fine view over Góis and the River Ceira, and up the valley towards the distinctive crag of the Pena de Góis.

Pena de Góis.

Coming back down the Rua Antonio Francisco Barata, we take the 2nd  turning on the left down the Rua Olinda Ferreira Dias Nogueira. We are now walking into the oldest part of the town, passing medieval shops and town houses that have stood on this site for several centuries. On the left is an old grey building with a courtyard that was once a school. The only sign of this now is a bright blue tile set into the gatepost saying, in Portuguese, 'A false friend is the worst of enemies'. Here are houses that were once the homes of Jews, forbidden from owning land locally, making a living as merchants in the town. At the bottom of the street we can see a stone archway on the left that has a distinctly Moorish design. Another house, with a worn door-sill, is said to be the entrance to the house of the Knights Templar. We are now in the old Largo do Terreirinho, which was probably the centre of the old town of Góis.

 
   


 
 

old Largo do Terreirinho,

old Largo do Terreirinho,

Largo do Terreirinho (meaning 'little square') is the old name for this area. If we look round the square we can see that the stone around the doors and windows varies in colour. None of this stone is naturally occurring in the Góis region. Dressed stone was an expensive commodity that had to be imported into the region. Yellow and pink granites, as well as red sandstones can be found here. One clue that informs us that this commodity was re-used is the different-sized pieces of stone used around the doors and windows, and the general rule-of -thumb is that original stonework is obtained from one source, and is made to the same dimensions.

Ponte Real built by Don João III in 1533.

 
       
 

Ponteda Républica

Ponte Real built by Don João III in 1533.

Turning right along the Rua Antonio Rocha Barros Junior brings us out on to the cobbled main street of medieval Góis. Looking up the street to the right is the Praça da Républica, and down to the left is the river, spanned by the magnificent  Ponte Real built by Don João III in 1533.

We cross the road and turn left, walking down the slope to go under the bridge, giving us the opportunity to take a closer look at its graceful arches. In the summer, we can also take the opportunity to stop at the riverside café for some refreshment, and admire the orange trees.

 
       
 

alongside the river

alongside the river

Going back under the bridge, we now turn left to walk alongside the river for a short way, before taking the first right and walking up the street. On our left we pass the house where at one time unwanted babies from the outlying villages were abandoned. (In the 18th century, this building stood on its own on the outskirts of the old town, and so was the first place that a distraught young mother could leave her child safely and run.)

We turn left at the Praça do Pelourinho, and wind through the little street, at the top of which we turn right, to return to the Praça da Républica.


 
   
 
   
  Updated 10 January, 2008